Gorillas in our midst!

We have often been asked if we have gone gorilla tracking – Uganda’s top tourist attraction. Our reply – “At $350 a permit ! No, and not likely either!”.

However, God often has the last laugh – a couple of weeks ago we were given two tickets from Doug & Barb, from Canada, who were unable to come to Uganda after purchasing the permits. We felt so sad for them, but overjoyed at the gift from them – people we have never even met - and very grateful.

So, Beryl went into training, and Alan reckoned that he was fit enough already, what with all the walking around his desk that he does!

So, a day’s journey took us to the bottom Southwest corner of Uganda, along the most beautiful countryside imaginable. Think Welsh hills and valleys, add narrow roads, sheer edges, dust and potholes, and then add the magic ingredient SUNSHINE!

The mountains are terraced to maximise the  crop growing potential. The fertile soil being hand-tilled by mostly women, grows the most wonderful vegetables. In fact we brought back 6 cauliflowers because it is impossible to buy them locally.

Incredible to see such steep mountains neatly laid out in plots bearing giant vegetables.

We had been told that we were lucky because the gorillas were only one hour away, but they shifted overnight, so it was a two hour climb down, up and down over mountains, through thickets, on narrow ledges (with holes!) and some parts were so steep that Beryl went down on her kabina (bum)!

Exhausting, scary, exhilarating, and we had yet to see the gorillas. They were more amazing than it is possible to describe. Beryl stayed put with one armed ranger, to watch a couple of babies, and Alan scrambled off along the side of a steep, bramble and tree covered hill with the rest of the group tracking the adults. Beryl thought this was a pointless exercise (as indeed she thinks most exercise is pointless!) because it seemed to push the gorillas further away. The gorillas just ambled through the forest like it was a walk in the park. It isn’t! The forest is aptly named Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

So, Beryl – woman of prayer prayed, “Oh God I cannot walk any further – could you please send them to me?” A gorilla came and munched the thicket just behind her, she could just see its head. The young gorillas stayed nicely in view, and she was well content with her strictly timed hour of viewing. Alan saw more gorillas, including the youngest baby.

“Time to go” said the armed ranger, and Beryl (last in – first out) started to make her way through and round a corner. You have to watch every place you put your foot – and so it was not until the ranger said “Come back” that she looked up and saw that a huge gorilla was coming through the bush right in front of her – 4 feet away!

Beryl will argue with pushy drivers, refusing to reverse where she thinks she has right of way, but this time there was no dispute! Backwards into the bush with the rest of the group, and then another couple of gorillas ambled in as well, and we were surrounded, with Beryl being close enough to “pass the salt”.  After a few minutes of taking photos with bated breath we were led out by a different route, to rejoin the scouts and porters, and to eat our curled sandwiches. Every trecker was completely overwhelmed. And overjoyed.

The climb back is best glossed over. It was Down, Up, Down on the way, and so therefore Up, Down, UP on the way back, no shade, full sunshine.

The fitter element of the group raced back in 1.5 hours (but later confessed to being exhausted too), while Alan and Beryl climbed back (taking 3 hours!) with sore feet, and short of breath, fearing “Death on a Mountain”.

The cheerful rangers assured us that if we couldn’t make it they would carry us off on a stretcher. ALONG THAT NARROW RIDGE!!!!!!!!!!

No way. Prayer, and silent meditation on appropriate verses (available on request!) kept us going. Boy, it was tough!!

Back at the office we were presented with Certificates to say that we had successfully completed our Gorrilla tracking. Certificate?? Gold medal at least!

We felt ridiculously proud of ourselves, and overwhelmed by our unknown friends generosity that made it possible. The few days before the trek had been really stressful, and the trip up the mountain had put everything back into perspective – “Why if I can do that – I can do ANYTHING, through Christ that strengthens me!”

The journey back to Masaka took another day, again through vastly different countryside. Back to the same stuff, the ordinary, the everyday.

But somehow the trip has changed us. Mountain gorillas – rare, precious, - ugly and beautiful have taught us some more about love, giving, trying, succeeding and a lot about mountains!

So if you dare – go too! We can advise you and arrange it. After all if Beryl can do it – anyone can!!!!!!!!!!!

October 2006.